Jos says: “Cossard was one of the first natural wine producers from Burgundy I became acquainted with. The quality of his wines really broadened my perception of what natural and minimal intervention wines could be. I really like his vibrant style and always find myself drawn to the energy in his wines. His ‘Combe Bazin’ is one of my all-time favourite wines, not just from him but amongst producers all over the world. Whenever I come across it on a wine list, I always order it.
In fact, the ‘Combe Bazin’ 2012 was the first bottle of wine I had with Chef Keirin. This was before I’d joined Le Bon Funk, we were at Le Dauphin, the wine bar of Chateaubriand in Paris. Talking over that bottle was what planted the seed that led me to move to Singapore.”
Frédéric Cossard had a somewhat left of centre career before becoming a man of the vines, with more than 10 years of following his father’s footsteps in the milk trade. Not being born into a family of vignerons means that starting to produce wines in Burgundy is no easy feat. In 1996, he began Domaine de Chassorney, with a few hectares of rented vines. To access additional vineyards, he also began working as a négociant, with such wines being bottles eponymously, as ‘Frédéric Cossard’.
The Saint-Romain ‘Combe Bazin’ is the most emblematic white wine of the estate, and arguably of the estate entirely. Its location within the village of Saint-Romain holds a high percentage of limestone. The nature of the plot combined with Fred’s approach leads itself to wines of nerve and tension with a distinctive minerality. In the winemaking process, there are no chemical additions whatsoever, including sulphur, with long and unrushed fermentations. His wines are never marked by new oak usage, wanting to let the specificity of the individual terroir shine through.
The warmth and sunshine of 2018 provide a counterbalance to Fred’s style of laser-like acidity, adding some fruit generosity and youthful approachability resulting in a delicious drinking wine now.