Aligoté: The Bastard Child or Unsung Hero of Burgundy?

Every generation brings along a winemaker or two who truly have the potential to re-define an estate’s quality of production. Charles Lachaux is certainly appearing to be one of those leading lights in the current generation of producers. He represents the sixth generation of the Lachaux family which produces from what is currently one of the most hotly discussed domaines. Charles joined the family estate in 2011 and took over full management in 2015. His studies under the iconic Lalou Bize-Leroy are clearly evident through his ardent work with the vines. His Bourgogne Aligoté ‘Les Champs d’Argent’ is further evidence of his inspiration from his time with Madame Bize-Leroy and in particular, her Domaine d’Auvenay ‘Sous Châtelet’ Aligoté; one of Burgundy’s leading examples of the variety. 

Les Champs d’Argent (meaning, the silver fields) comes from a small 0.6 hectare plot located in Vosne-Romanée, with plantings dating back to the 1930s. It is aged in old barrels for 12 months before being bottled unfined, unfiltered and without added sulphur. The plot is treated according to biodynamic practices, and Charles reduces the yield to less than two-thirds of what is usually seen with Aligoté to increase the concentration of flavours in the grapes. It is a wine built around richness and texture, with a myriad of flavours present on both the nose and palate. With inspiration drawn from the greatest of producers, Charles has set himself a high benchmark and is certainly rising to the task with his 2018 example.

To fans of Burgundy, the name de Villaine is no stranger. Aubert de Villaine is the long-time co-director of the legendary Domaine de la Romanée-Conti – arguably the world’s greatest producer of Pinot Noir. He sought less pedigreed pastures to call home and settled down in the village of Bouzeron, in the south of Burgundy, with his wife where they created their own estate of A&P de Villaine, outside of his day-job with Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Aligoté was initially given Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) status in 1979, and thanks to the enduring work of Aubert Bouzeron was recognised with its own Appellation in 1997. Bouzeron occupies a unique position within Burgundy with Aligoté being the sole grape cultivated. Their commitment to the grape is exemplified not only through their organic and biodynamic work in the vines, but also an Aligoté nursery they have established to preserve the genetic diversity and ancient clones of the variety. Aubert, together with his nephew Pierre de Benoist proudly fly the flag for Bouzeron as some of its greatest proponents of the potential the variety holds. 

This cuvée is an assemblage of various plots which have been vinified in a combination of both stainless steel and old wooden foudres (large vats). The Aligoté used here is a unique clone known as Aligoté doré which produces lower yields and more aromatic intensity than the commonly seen Aligoté vert. The wine speaks with a pure voice of Aligoté, showing the variety’s acidity balanced by its fruit expression.

While often a maligned and insipid variety, the Aligoté holds great potential for complexity, as demonstrated by Pierre-Yves with his Bourgogne Aligoté. The fruit is mainly sourced from the Hautes Côtes de Beaune, with a small portion also coming from Chassagne-Montrachet. It is aged entirely in regular size (228L) barrels for 11 months on its lees and is notably the only white of the range where regular sized barrels are used. The use of barrels lends further complexity to the wine, compared to the commonly seen and often ‘lean and mean’ examples of Aligoté that are often solely raised in stainless steel tanks. The combined use of lees, barrels and Pierre-Yves’ deft hand in the winery result in a wine brimming with freshness, texture and depth.