Description
Australia is known for high-octane, over-oaked, and boisterous wines, a reputation that served them well during the era of Parkerisation and unfortunately, led to many preconceived notions about their wine. However, the new generation of avant-garde producers is now yielding wines that differ greatly from the imposing styles of the past.
Chief amongst them, with a focus on quality, is Place of Changing Winds. Rob Walters has spent most of his life working with some of the world’s greatest domaines and growers; these experiences seeing grape to glass has inspired him to push boundaries in Australia. His visits to some of the most hallowed viticultural sites, collaborating and consulting with vineyard experts, agronomists, geologists and scientists, led him to find a site to produce “wines of great intensity, finesse and perfume, that spoke loudly of place.”
After a 3-year search, a unique site was found just outside Macedon, less than an hour from Melbourne CBD. At 500m altitude, with free draining soil of eroded quartz, sandstone, and quartzite mixed through clay, sand, and silt, the location had not seen chemical inputs for decades. Between 2012 and 2018, vines were planted at densities of 10,000 to 33,000 per hectare (unheard of even amongst high densities sites of Burgundy), yielding under 400g/vine (compared to the standard 2kg/vine for Pinot Noir). This high-density planting, though labour-intensive, is emblematic of their focus on soil and vine health and quality.
9 clones of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, on both their own roots and various rootstocks, have been planted, creating intricate diversity within the fruits and flavours. Most vineyards adopt a singular method for simplicity, but they use various trellising and pruning methods, including the incredibly laborious Poussard ‘sap flow’ pruning, to respect vine biology and create a more robust plant that is resistant to wood disease. A team of 3 full-time and 6 seasonal workers manage the 3.1 hectares, contrasting with the norm of 1 employee per 50 Ha in conventional Australian vineyards. Specific tractors were imported to ensure precise work—nothing at Place of Changing Winds happens by chance.
The estate range is complemented by fruit from 2 growers north of home, where it’s ideal for Rhône varieties like Syrah, Marsanne and Roussanne. These vines are also managed organically, with the Place of Changing Winds team involved in all viticultural decisions, from pruning to picking times, and even providing 10kg picking bins.
The Wurundjeri people—the original inhabitants of the land—called the site Warekilla, or “Place of Changing Winds”. This name remains fitting today, with new energy and life brought to the project.
